Saturday, May 5, 2007

Photos of Camper Launch


Removed garage door header to get camper out of garage/shop.


Jacking camper up - 4" at a time on concrete blocks.


Backing truck up - underneath camper.


Profile shot of camper on truck.


Another shot of camper on truck.


Front view of camper on truck.


Inside camper - view of A/C unit mounted on ceiling.


Interior - custom-made cushions and table.


Stable-lift jack system - assembly in progress.

Moving Camper out of Garage and onto Truck

Ok, I have now done as much work on the camper that i can do while it is in the garage. I had to tear the Header off the top of the garage door to get it to clear. I bought 15 3/8" wooden dowels, jacked the camper up and started to roll it out. I took 4 of us men to push and guide it while rolling it out. I was happy just getting it outside for the first time. But my neighbors wanted to see it on the truck. I had prepared for this day by buying 40 concrete blocks and 2 more bottle jacks. Well we went to work jacking it up 4" at a time and kept blocking it up till we got it high enought to back the truck under it. We let most of the air out of the back tires and i let all the air out of the air bags over the axles. This lowered the truck another 6". It took us 2 hours but we got it in the bed of the truck. As you can see i just had a Blue tarp on top to cover the holes for the A.C. unit, vent fan, and sat dish. I put the A.C. unit, sat dish, and vent fan in place the next couple of days. I included 3 profile shots of the camper on the truck. Of course i couldn't go anywhere with it on there because i only had 8ply tires and they would not support the weight. I took a photo thru the back door showing the A.C. unit from the inside of the camper, also the fan vent over the bed area, and to the left the sat dish crank. The next photo shows the cushions and small table I built. I didn't want a big table, this one is small and stores under the couch area in the storage bin. I had the cushions built for $400. Note the cut out cushion at the bottom right of the photo. This cushion can be pulled up by itself and then the lid to the thetford toilet can be lifted without having to move the 6' long main couch cushion. Then the last photo shows the Stable lift system mounted on the right side of the truck. In this photo you can see the hand cranks. I have not installed the motors as of yet or wired them in. I will have to post one more blog with photos of the lift system and more profile photos of the truck and camper. I also plan on going thru my notes and give a price break down of all the money spent on this project in case anyone else wants to know the cost. I had planned on building this thing on the cheap, but i got carried away. One thing led to another and before you know it i have spent about $11,000.00, but hey, it's not like your ever going to build one of these things again.

Saturday, April 28, 2007

Siding Pics


First 3 pieces of siding go on.


Left side siding on, window openings cut-out.


Back wall siding - with openings cut-out.


Beginning of front-wall aluminum siding.


Front wall complete - clearance lights installed.


Used boat rub rail molding on corner curves.


Left side roof - glue rolled on.


Right side roof - glue rolled on.


Rubber roof glued on. Set to dry.


All siding on. Windows dry-fitted.


Corner molding and clearance lights.


Rubber roof on - and cut-outs for A/C and fan vent.

Aluminum siding goes on

I now have been working on the camper for about 6 months, the inside cabinet work is done, wiring done, and some of the plumbing. I have ran all the wires for the clearance lights that go on the outside of the camper and have insulated all the outside walls. So now it is time to put on the siding I ordered from "The Metal Company" out of Alvardo Colorado. I paid approx $1,800 for the siding, corner modeling, rubber roof, and the rubber roof kit. It cost me another $200 to have it shipped via DHL to my house. I ordered the siding with the Pittsburg Lock. You start at the top, putting the first sheet on which was a full 16' long. I used an air stapler, 1/8" staples, 1" long. After i got the first sheet up, and made sure it was level, the second sheet slides up into the Pittsburg lock and you staple it at the bottom and that holds it. I started on the right side and then did the left side. Then i used my router with a 1/8" flush trimming bit to cut out the window openings. I found out that if you route about 2 or 3' and then spray your bit down with WD 40 the aluminum will not build up in the bit. You can tell when the bit gets clogged because it will quit cutting and he have to stop and dig the aluminum out of it. But using the router bit made fast work of the cut outs. I then put the siding on the back wall the next day. Then used the router bit to cut out the doorway, propane tank door, and thetford toilet door access. Now I couldn't do the front until i put on the rubber roof. Before I spread the glue I shop vac'd the plywood roof and then went over every square inch. I found 4 screws that were not recessed to my liking so i reset them. I wanted a smooth roof with no bumps in it. I rolled the Rubber roof material up on the roof. I noticed that it had some waves in it. this was due to it being rolled up when shipped in a tube. So I let it stay up on the roof for 2 days and the memory lines were gone, it was now flat. I rolled it in half, right down the center of the camper. I then rolled on the glue with a paint roller like the instructions said to do. Well when i got this one half side rolled i noticed that the plywood had absorbed most of the glue. So I rolled on a 2nd thicker coat and that did it. I then folded the roof over on the glue and then folded the other side on top of the side i had just glued down. I then spread two coats on this side and rolled the roof back over on top of the glue. I let all the edges hang over about 3". I then got a large 4' wide shop broom and started working the air bubbles out, from the center to the outside edges. The job turned out perfect, and this was a first for me. It was fairly simple. I let the roof dry for 3 days before i did any more work. I then put on the front wall siding starting up on the roof just over the cabinets on the front wall and then wrapped around all the way to the box area. It took me two days to finish the front. I am slow but sure. Then i put the putty tape on all the corners and started putting on the corner molding. I bought the molding with predrilled holes every 4". I think i drove around 400 screws into all the molding. The molding process took me about a week to do. I would work on it a little each day plus i ran into a major problem with the corner bends. I tried making the bends myself but you cannot just make a bend with this stuff, it is aluminum, but still very rigid. I called around to machine shops and never could find anyone who had the right machine to make my bends here in the Houston, Texas area. Well I had to put my thinking cap on and i came up with the idea of using rubber boat rub rail molding. I got on line and found some J molding and ordered 10' of it for around $35. I had to wait another week for it to come in. Well it would bend but not very much so i thought of heating the rubber up to get it to bend around my corners. I put it in the microwave and kept pulling it out every 15 seconds until i found that if i heated it up for 2 mins it was flexible enough to work with. So I predrilled a bunch of holes in it, heated it up, then ran over and screwed it down while bending it around the corners while it was still hot. Once it cooled off it was very rigid again. It worked out perfect, as you can see in the photos. Actually you could do all the camper in this stuff and it would probably be cheaper that the aluminum modeling. After i got all the molding on, and of course it was backed up with 3/4" putty tape, I had to cover all the screws with a plastic insert molding. I bought 100' on line for $12.00. Took another week to get it in. After I got all the insert molding in the groves to cover the screw heads i started caulking. Now if you have never used the special RV caulk before you are in for a surprise. It has to be the stickiest caulk i have used in my life. It is a rubber based and it sticks even to grease, says so on the tube. Well it is hard to get off your hands too. I found that if i kept my hands soaked in Mineral spirits it would not stick as much to my fingers. So i had my hands soaked in mineral spirits for two days while working with this stuff. Well i got all the siding on and all the corner molding, it took me about 5 weeks due to having to order parts and wait on them to come in. See on going photos of this project. I will enter just one more blog after this that will show the finished project.

Sunday, April 22, 2007

Pics of Roof, Electrical, Insulation


Dry fitting first roof panel.


All 3 roof panels varnished and installed. (Interior shot.)


Exterior shot of all 3 roof panels and rafters.


Backside of electrical box wiring.


Front of electrical box with wiring.


Wiring of vent hood over stove. Running wires thru cabinets.


Insulation between rafters and walls.
Note: electric wires run for clearance lights.


Roof sheathed in 3/8 " plywood. Dry fitting A/C shroud and satellite dish.


Side view of position of satellite dish.

The Roof goes on, electrical work, insulation

I have now finished up all the side wall cabinet work and spray varnished everthing and then put all the cabinet hardware on. Now it is time to put the roof on. The roof is three full sheets of luana plywood. I built the roof panels on my work bench, the 2x2" rafters are glued and air nailed to the back side. Then the panels were flipped over, sanded, and 4 coats of varnish sprayed on. Then the panels were lifted up on the roof, glued, and screwed down with a screw about every 4". All of the screw holes were predrilled and then a countersink bit was used. I bet there is 300 screws holding the roof panels on. Not only did i screw them to the outside walls, I also screwed them to any Cabinet work that was touching the roof. This pulls the whole structure together and makes it rock solid. I then ran all my clearance light wires by boring holes thru the 2x2's all along the top edge. I also ran wires to the roof vent, A.C. unit, and Sat Dish. Then i used the pink foam board for insulation. I had to cut each piece to fit each gap in the 1x2" side walls and between the roof rafters. I doubled up the insulation on the roof and very front of the camper. After i got the camper all prewired i put the roof on which is 3/8" plywood. I then dry fitted the A.C. shroud to see where to put the Sat Dish, which I ended up putting up in front of the A.C. unit and to the left. I did this to leave me room on the back of the camper for some Solar Panels i might put on at a later date.

Saturday, April 14, 2007

Pics of Cabinets on Right Side

More pics of cabinet construction. These are the cabinets on the right side of the camper.


Boxing in refrigerator. (Fridge doors are off.)


Refrigerator boxed in and the doors back on.


Upper right-side cabinets installed, boxed-in and dry-fitted microwave.


Boxed in and installed toilet.


Built lid cover for toilet box.


Toilet completely boxed in - concealed.


Boxed in water tank and battery compartment.
Built below step-up for the bed.

Left side cabinet counter top installed.


Another angle of left-side cabinets - varnished.


Right side upper cabinets varnished.